Birding the Camargue
The Camargue is one of the premier birding destinations in the Western Palearctic and rightly so. The proximity of several diverse habitats within a relatively small area allied with its position on a major migration route make it an essential destination both for novice and experienced birders. The "true" Camargue lies in the Rhone delta between the two arms of the river, south of Arles, but for birders the area includes the stony wastes of the Crau to the east, the arable land and lagoons of the Petit Camargue to the west, the mountains of the Alpilles to the north- east and the Pont de Gard to the north. The combination of these habitats and its location on the Mediterranean guarantee a wonderful variety of bird species all year round, with each area showing a different character according to the season.
The heart of the Camargue comprises the Reserve Naturelle, based around the Etang de Vaccares, which has been the major protected French wetland since 1972. One of the chief attractions is the resident population of Greater Flamingoes, a sight only to be seen in a handful of locations in the whole of Europe. The beach across the river mouth has breeding Kentish Plover as well as Tawny Pipit and Short toed Lark in the dunes. The wealth of migrating waders that use this area in season is very impressive and during recent winters it has also attracted a number of vagrant raptors including Spotted, Lesser Spotted and Bonelli's Eagles. In summer the saline lagoons behind the beach are full of breeding waders such as Avocet and Black winged Stilt, terns such as Sandwich, Little, Whiskered and the rare Gull-billed, and gulls such as Yellow-legged, Mediterranean and Slender billed. The sight and sound of these many thousands of birds in their compact breeding colonies is truly unforgettable.
The surrounding garrigue and larger islands hold a wealth of exciting species including residents such as Moustached Warbler, Cetti's Warbler and Penduline Tit, plus breeding visitors that include Spectacled Warbler, European Bee Eater and Crested Lark. Further north the drainage ditches and flooded rice fields are home to many rare European breeding birds such as Collared Pratincole, whose hawking displays for insects at dusk are a wonderful sight, Calandra Lark and the enigmatic Fan tailed Warbler whose quirky flight is another highlight of the area. If this were not enough the reedbeds north of the Etang de Vaccares also hold numerous Great Reed, Savi's and Sedge Warblers plus egrets, bitterns and herons. In addition, the woodlands throughout the area are home to breeding specialities such as Melodious Warbler, European Roller and Golden Oriole.
The summer months see the marshes and woods patrolled by numerous raptors including buzzards, Marsh and Montagu's harriers, Red and Black Kites, Hobby and Lesser Kestrel, with winter visitors such as Peregrine and the rarer eagles giving an exciting variety of raptors year round. The winter months also see huge rafts of Coot and Black necked grebe on the waters of the Etang de Vaccares.
In contrast to the relatively aqueous habitat of the National Reserve the area that lies directly to the east, La Crau, which historically forms the delta of the Durance River, is bone dry. It has remained thus for the last twelve thousand years and comprises uniformly flat terrain covered with pebbles, similar to eastern European steppe. The vegetation is limited to scattered bushes with occasional herbs to the North and sheep graze the area in the spring. Here there can be found species such as Great and Lesser Grey Shrikes, Stone Curlew, Black eared Wheatear, Great spotted Cuckoo and 2 very special rarities whose foothold in this part of Europe is tenuous to say the least, Little Bustard and Pin tailed Sandgrouse. These magnificent birds are elusive but easier to see during the spring when mating is underway. In addition, the summer also brings a chance of Egyptian Vulture although these rare raptors are rapidly disappearing from the area.
Just 24 kilometres to the north east of Arles is Les Baux de Provence. Situated in the Alpilles it comprises ruins from a Roman chateau- fortress, maintained as a tourist attraction, and is surrounded by a small village. Both the ruins and the surrounding rocky terrain are home to high altitude species not found in the rest of the Camargue. Species such as Blue Rock Thrush, Alpine Swift, Peregrine, Crag Martin, Subalpine Warbler and Alpine Accentor are all likely on or over the rocky slopes during the spring and summer months. The major attraction however is most frequently seen during the winter months and this is the near- mythical Wallcreeper which descends to these lower elevations only at this time of year. Once seen this bird is never forgotten, both because of its beauty and its elusiveness!! Close by is the radio station at Caume (in St Remy de Provence) which is located at the top of a peak surrounded by coniferous forest and during the winter holds similar species plus the chance of Snow Finch. In the spring this is one of the best sites for Eagle Owl whose haunting call can be heard floating across the valley.
Finally, to the north west of Arles is the Pont de Gard, a magnificent Roman aqueduct spanning a huge gorge. Birds found here include breeding Rock Sparrow and Alpine Swift on the bridge, plus Firecrest, Western Bonelli's Warbler, Hoopoe and Golden Oriole in the adjacent riverine forest. During spring migration rarities may be found here in good numbers.
This brief description gives only a flavour of what a week spent birding in the Camargue has to offer. Whatever time of year you visit the attractions are many and combined with the wonderful scenery and local food and drink the area is one that attracts people back time after time. It truly is an unforgettable place.
